But Fort Lauderdale is the escapist fantasy on a white sand backdrop.

This upscale Florida beach town delivers sun, fun and romance without taking itself too seriously, making it the favorite hangout of up-and-coming young professionals, old-money locals and tourists hailing from the northeast to the Caribbean.

"To me, South Beach is a scene and a pain," says April, a 26-year-old marketing professional from Miami. "Fort Lauderdale is more of a real-people scene. It's not fake, and it's not such a hassle." She and her friends regularly leave the big city for Happy Hour on the Riverwalk, usually following up with dinner on Las Olas or a live music show at one of the many local bars.

The Riverwalk used to be known for its barely legal college crowds, as did the intersection of Las Olas and the beach. However, most of the beachside "Spring Breaker" bars have either cleaned up or closed down to make way for upscale hotels and condominiums.

While the Riverfront still gets a young crowd late in the evening, it's become the Happy Hour spot of choice for the good-looking 20- to 40-something professional crowd. They mingle in bars like Tarpon Bend and the Side Bar (adjacent to Himmarshee Bar & Grill), unwinding from the work day and looking to see what prospects the night might have in store.

Las Olas Boulevard is a low-key go-to anytime of day or night. With its high-end boutiques, cute European-styled cafes and sophisticated martini bars, this little street has similar charm to South Beach's Lincoln Boulevard -- but without the hyperactive international hustle.

"Shopping is the most important part of going to Fort Lauderdale," says Farida, a 30-something television exec from Barbados. "I don't like being cramped with a bunch of people who are looking for the best bargains. I find more of what I like down there, and it's a more relaxed atmosphere.

"The restaurants are wonderful too," she adds.

Popular dining spots like Big City Tavern and Mark's Las Olas are packed all the time. Though you'll need a reservation for a table in the dining room, the bar scene is come-one, come-all.

The bars and restaurants aren't the only thing about Fort Lauderdale that's grown-up and sexy these days. Numerous hotels have opened, revamped or started construction -- and these sophisticated newcomers are drawing a whole new crowd of tourists.

The hottest hotel of the moment is The Atlantic, a sleek, contemporary property right on the water. Part of Starwood's Luxury Collection, it could be classified as a "design hotel" looks-wise, but still has the luxury and comfortable functionality associated with the Starwood brand. Trina Restaurant & Lounge is right on the beach, with a covered oceanview patio running the length of the restaurant and lounge. Though the place doesn't get a lot of local traffic, hotel guests create a lively international scene.

Another of the "New Guard" is the just-opened Hilton Fort Lauderdale Beach Resort. Its stylish, modern guest rooms feature flat-panel televisions and marble kitchenettes. An elevated pool overlooks the ocean.

While the traditionally opulent St. Regis tends to draw an older crowd, it's an elegant property with a well-deserved reputation for great service. It also has the best spa in the city.