There's an old saying that no wine is harder to make than Pinot Noir, owing to the grape's uniquely fragile nature.
Unlike Cabernet Sauvignon or other hearty red grapes that grow well in warm climates, Pinot Noir does best in isolated cool-climate areas.
When planted in these ideal conditions and nurtured correctly, Pinot Noir can rival the most complex of all varieties. In many cases, these wines are highlighted by flavors of red and black fruit and spicy notes of cinnamon, sassafras or mint.
Although still relatively delicate in comparison to the bigger reds, these wines can be very full-bodied and rich and feature graceful aromas, lavish flavors and a burst of lively acidity on the finish.
Along with well-known vineyards in the famous French region of Burgundy, many Pinot vineyards can be found in the New World as well. One of these premium areas is the Willamette Valley, a region in northern Oregon that is known for warm sunny days and chilly nights leading up to harvest. Planted on rolling hillsides at the foothills of the coastal range between Eugene and Portland, the finest vineyards of the region are highlighted by different mixtures of Pinot Noir "clones."
In layman's terms, "clones" refers to cuttings of plant material from superior "mother vines" in the Old World or "special selections" that have mutated from the original species. Today, many of these cuttings have been isolated, propagated and planted with root stock in the New World.
As a result, the flavor profiles of fruit from these vines help winemakers craft elegant and sophisticated wines that can dazzle the palate immediately or, in some cases, over time through aging.
In Oregon, Harry Peterson-Nedry of Chehalem Winery is one of the masters of the art who began planting a diverse range of Pinot Noir clones at the Ridgecrest Vineyard near the small town of Newberg in 1980. Today, the winery's flagship wine, the Chehalem 2006 3 Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley ($32*), is made with a mixture of premium Dijon, Pommard and Wadenswil clones planted at Ridgecrest, Stoller and Carrol Creek vineyards.
The end result is a wine filled with aromas of fresh violet, lavender and dried herbs. The bright flavors include black cherry cola, wild strawberry, raspberry, cocoa, white pepper, and a lingering note of earth on the finish.
In keeping with this underlying theme of flavor, balance, power and finesse, an exceptional film to pair with Pinot is Michael Clayton. Directed by Tony Gilroy (The Bourne Ultimatum), the film stars George Clooney as a hard-nose lawyer known as the Fixer who finds himself in a dangerous race to stay alive and solve the mysteries behind a corrupt $3 billion dollar lawsuit before it's too late. Clooney's titular character is brilliantly complemented by actors Tom Wilkinson and Tilda Swinton in a role that won her an Oscar.
Much like the specialty clones used to create the complex layers of flavors of the Chehalem 3 Vineyards Pinot Noir, the expanding personalities of each of these characters continue to build until the thrilling conclusion of this embracing and very satisfying film.
*Prices quoted in U.S. dollars
