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The Darjeeling Limited
HOLLYWOOD & VINE
The Darjeeling Limited
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The Rosé Revolution: A fresh perspective on pink wines...

For many, pink wines trigger memories of the past.

 

For some, it's a flashback to the sugary flavors of Mateus and Lancer's, two pink Portuguese imports popular in the 1970s. To others, it brings back memories of White Zinfandel and other "blush" wines scooped up by inexperienced consumers in the 1980s.

 

Some consumers simply associate the color pink with grandma's wine of choice. In each case, these examples have led to a general belief that pink wines taste sweet.

 

Recently this perception has started to change thanks to the exciting new trend focused on highlighting the unique flavors of pink wines made in a much drier style. In Europe, these tasty wines have been crafted by top-notch winemakers for more than a century.

 

Known as rosé or vin gris in France, rosato in Italy, rosado in Spain and weissherbst in Germany, the best of these crisp and expressive wines feature fresh fruity flavors, complex aromas, zippy acidity and invigorating dry or bone-dry finishes that make you want more.

 

In North America, a growing number of well-respected wineries have started making their own versions of these delicious Euro-style wines over the past decade. Made with pinot noir, syrah, mourvedre, sangiovese, merlot, cabernet sauvignon and other red grape varieties, these fresh young wines are released in the spring, following harvest. The goal of each producer involved in this timely "rosé revolution" is to create wines that can fill the mouth with flavor, refresh the palate and stimulate the senses.

 

A delicious example of this dry style is the Fleur de California 2007 Vin Gris of Pinot Noir, Carneros ($11*). Bright, fresh and expressive, this sophisticated pink wine features floral aromas, vibrant flavors of wild strawberry, plum and cherry and a nice burst of tangy acidity on a long crisp finish.

 

The high-quality grapes used to make this taste-tempting wine were grown in the hillsides of Carneros, a lovely region known for its moderate bayside climate and heavy clay soils. Winemaker Francis Mahoney, who launched his first dry pink wine under the Fleur de California label in 1987, was among the first to plant Pinot Noir vines in Carneros in the mid 1970s.

 

In spring and summer months, this expressive new vintage of Fleur de California Vin Gris is best served chilled. In addition to complementing a wide range of foods (including fish, poultry, ham, barbequed meats, salads and fine cheeses), the depth of flavor and vibrant acidity of this yummy wine pairs extremely well with curry and other exotic spices commonly used in Indian cuisine.

 

As such, a good film pairing is The Darjeeling Limited, directed by Wes Anderson (Rushmore, The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou, The Royal Tenenbaums). In the film, Adrien Brody, Jason Schwartzman and Owen Wilson star as three brothers who embark on a "spiritual journey" to bond with one another and rejuvenate their relationships while traveling on a train through India.

 

Like many other fine wine producers, Fleur de California is a member of the Rosé Avengers & Producers (RAP), an international group of winemakers and wine drinkers dedicated to educating the public about the wonderful qualities of dry pink wines.

 

*Prices quoted in U.S. dollars



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